Engine was out and I went to install the exhaust (its a U shaped piece that has to be in before the engine) of course I got concerned bout how many lines were supposed to run from the outdrive and into the boat.
As it turns out, it should be 2 hoses (one from trim up and one trim down ... IE an in and out hose for the hydraulic fluid). These hoses need to be in place and secure before installing the exhaust on these older boats because otherwise you can't access that area again.
I ended up buying a Clymer manual for that model year range (mid 60s - 80s) which has provided a fair bit of detail that really helps the re-assembly process. [How many hydraulic lines wasn't included, I had to scour the internet to figure that out.]
I'm also finding manuals to be lacking in terms of bolt sizes and lengths. That has taken some research and trial and error to resolve. Best advice I can give is label everything in a zip lock bag and keep it all together!
The project boat in question...
Friday, July 22, 2011
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Engine in and back out!
So the gantry was built a while back and the engine was placed in the boat. Since it has been about 2 years since I started this project I couldn't remember all the details of the tear down of the engine, etc.
After the engine was in the boat there was some question if there were some type of rubber stops on the engine mount to reduce vibration noise. I ended up finding some steering wheel bushings that looked like they would work.. but... ultimately found that they were not required. The front engine mounts on this boat just had two screws on the top and two on the bottom to hold the engine at the proper angle. If anyone reading this blog is curious the bolts I needed were 3/4" fine thread (16 threads).
Getting the engine lined up to drill the new motor mounts was relatively easy... the bolts that attach the bell housing to the outdrive basically get you aligned correctly left to right and front to back. The only real adjustment was getting the engine level and at the correct angle for the outdrive shaft which is done by adjusting the aforementioned bolts.
In my mind this was the correct thing to do (getting the mounts drilled) before finishing engine assembly. But as it turns out these older Mercruisers use a "Y" (mine looks more like a U) shaped exhaust pipe that has to be installed BEFORE the engine (there isn't enough clearance to just slide it under the engine). So the engine has to be taken back out, the exhaust pipe installed, and the engine can go back in.
One trick I've found is stacking two 2x4s and laying them across the boat (under the rails) provides a simple yet effective mini-gantry to lift and position the engine. This was extremely useful when trying to get the engine level on the mounts.
One issue I am seeing in my future is that with the exhaust manifolds installed and hoses it will be difficult to access the valve covers to adjust the valves (if needed). It would have been better if the engine was on a test stand. I can't remember if I mentioned or not but the engine was originally a long block but the guy who was supposed to finish building the motor for me stripped it down to inspect it first and when he refused to work on a manufacturered motor... I got it back in pieces. Otherwise, this would have been less of a concern.
It isn't fatal but may take a little more time to adjust the lash on the valves if needed.
After the engine was in the boat there was some question if there were some type of rubber stops on the engine mount to reduce vibration noise. I ended up finding some steering wheel bushings that looked like they would work.. but... ultimately found that they were not required. The front engine mounts on this boat just had two screws on the top and two on the bottom to hold the engine at the proper angle. If anyone reading this blog is curious the bolts I needed were 3/4" fine thread (16 threads).
Getting the engine lined up to drill the new motor mounts was relatively easy... the bolts that attach the bell housing to the outdrive basically get you aligned correctly left to right and front to back. The only real adjustment was getting the engine level and at the correct angle for the outdrive shaft which is done by adjusting the aforementioned bolts.
In my mind this was the correct thing to do (getting the mounts drilled) before finishing engine assembly. But as it turns out these older Mercruisers use a "Y" (mine looks more like a U) shaped exhaust pipe that has to be installed BEFORE the engine (there isn't enough clearance to just slide it under the engine). So the engine has to be taken back out, the exhaust pipe installed, and the engine can go back in.
One trick I've found is stacking two 2x4s and laying them across the boat (under the rails) provides a simple yet effective mini-gantry to lift and position the engine. This was extremely useful when trying to get the engine level on the mounts.
One issue I am seeing in my future is that with the exhaust manifolds installed and hoses it will be difficult to access the valve covers to adjust the valves (if needed). It would have been better if the engine was on a test stand. I can't remember if I mentioned or not but the engine was originally a long block but the guy who was supposed to finish building the motor for me stripped it down to inspect it first and when he refused to work on a manufacturered motor... I got it back in pieces. Otherwise, this would have been less of a concern.
It isn't fatal but may take a little more time to adjust the lash on the valves if needed.
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