The transom is done and the boat and motor are ready to be coupled up...well, as soon as the engine is done.
I had one of the hydraulic lines replaced as well (I think I mentioned this in the last post) because it was starting to leak.
On the engine... I will say if you don't want to put the time and effort into it... you should buy a crate motor. It has taken me over a year to get the engine ready. I've spent a ton of time trying to find the right part numbers, etc. Of course, I'm putting in an engine is close to stock as it would have been coming off the showroom floor.
The project boat in question...
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Fiberglass Work Done
The marine shop called and said the fiberglass work (transom replacement) was done. Took them about 2-3 weeks from the time I dropped it off until the time the work was done; not too bad.
Now they're putting back in all the outdrive and engine accessories (fuel tanks, etC)
As a note: When the engine and accessories are out is a good time to put in new hydraulic lines and do any engine work that might be needed. It is harder to do with the engine in and if something requires the removal of the engine it will incur the cost of pulling and dropping the engine back in.
Now they're putting back in all the outdrive and engine accessories (fuel tanks, etC)
As a note: When the engine and accessories are out is a good time to put in new hydraulic lines and do any engine work that might be needed. It is harder to do with the engine in and if something requires the removal of the engine it will incur the cost of pulling and dropping the engine back in.
Thursday, November 11, 2010
New vs Rebuilt vs Remanufactured engines
I put this out on my other random blog but wanted to cross link it here as it is applicable to boat restoration as well.
New vs Rebuilt vs Remanufactured
New vs Rebuilt vs Remanufactured
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Transom Rot
One of my goals as stated in the introduction of this blog was to help people not only learn what getting into a restore could entail but also signs that a restore is upcoming for those who might want to avoid such a project.
As I mentioned in an earlier post my Sea Ray needed new motor mounts and close inspection showed it also needed a new transom.
First, I want to discuss the transom and some basics of boat construction and then wrap up with how to identify transom rot.
Boat Construction Crash Course: In fiberglass boat construction a hull of a boat is created by layering fiberglass (more on this shortly) over a mold or some type of structure. When the fiberglass cures it becomes a rigid shape. In modern boat construction a mold is created and the fiberglass is shaped to that mold and a top and bottom piece of the boat are combined to create the boat (that's why most boats have a trim ring around them near the top of the boat... that's where the two piece join). A lot of the reason in modern construction for this type of approach is that it requires no wood products to be used to mold the boat hence no chance of the wood rotting.
Older boats, like this Sea Ray, used wood to create the form for the fiberglass hull. Wood planks running from front to back (called stringers) provided a shape for the hull connected to the transom (roughly the back of the boat). In outboard boats the motor attaches to the transom while in larger boats the transom is generally referring to the back of the boat.
Once the fiberglass is cured it becomes the structure and the wood is merely the form around which the fiberglass is poured. So you might thing... if the wood isn't structural, why do I care if its rotting? Well, that get back to the properties of fiberglass.
Fiberglass: What we call fiberglass is typically "fiber reinforced plastic" or FRP. Depending on the application the fiberglass can be chopped, strands, or even woven mats of glass. By itself the glass is fairly flexible but when a hardener/adhesive is applied (resin) the structure cures into a hard surface that is hard as steel. Fiberglass is usually composed of many layers of fiberglass/resin to increase the stability of the structure.
However, fiberglass has some drawbacks such as not being UV resistant and being absorbent (blistering is an example of this). So why would be make a boat out of this stuff? Its light weight, its tough, and with the proper coatings you can repel water and UV protect it.
Coming full circle... you can see how rotted wood (IE wood that has water in it) would be harmful to fiberglass. Over time, the moisture causes the fiberglass to de-laminate (IE the adhesive starts to fail) and the fiberglass falls apart.
What happens with transom rot? As the moisture de-laminates the fiberglass it allows water and moisture to further penetrate the fiberglass. Not only does this extend the area of rot but also the amount of water being absorbed into the glass. While this breakdown takes some time it basically means that if you let your boat sit in the water long enough it would eventually sink because water would be flowing freely through the hull.
The main reason you want to get transom rot fixed (or any rot really) as soon as possible therefore is to prevent further damage (IE a more costly repair) and to reduce the risk of your boat sinking.
Signs of rot: There are a few ways to determine rot on a boat and they are as follows:
1. Wood that is rotted will be soft to the touch, wet, and likely crumble if you handle it.
2. Rotted fiberglass will also manifest itself as soft spots; places on the floor of the boat where the floor gives or feels soft when pressure is applied.
3. Places where the fiberglass looks to be coming apart into sheets (de-laminating)
Screwdriver test: While I don't recommend running around doing this to everyone's boat you can use a screwdriver (or the end of a ratchet) to strike the fiberglass with a light to moderate amount of force. If the fiberglass is rotted you will likely penetrate the fiberglass. If you were to touch inside the hole in the fiberglass you might find the back side of the fiberglass to be mushy.
Knock test: Another test which is slightly less reliable is a knock test. If you knock the hull of the boat you should hear a solid sound but if you hear a hollow sound it means there is a void where something has likely rotted.
Cost of repairs: The cost of fiberglass repairs can vary but expect a transom repair/replacement to cost $3,000 - $5,000.
Repair options: In my case, there were two potential fixes I explored. The "traditional" fix is to remove the old fiberglass and wood, and add new wood and fiberglass over it; just like the original boat construction. On smaller boats more so than larger ones a popular repair is to remove the old wood and fill in the void with some type of epoxy; a popular one being Sea Cast. This would have been cheaper probably but it does add weight and requires there be no moisture in the transom area for it to bond correctly (which would have been difficult to do without taking the transom apart, etc)... so I opted to have my transom redone.
Preventing transom rot: The easiest way to help keep your transom from rotting (or any parts of the boat for that matter) is to keep it dry. Make sure your bilge is dry... apply an anti-fouling paint if you store the boat in the water... and make sure the paint coatings on the bilge, hull, etc are well maintained. Those coatings help prevent UV damage and repel water.
As I mentioned in an earlier post my Sea Ray needed new motor mounts and close inspection showed it also needed a new transom.
First, I want to discuss the transom and some basics of boat construction and then wrap up with how to identify transom rot.
Boat Construction Crash Course: In fiberglass boat construction a hull of a boat is created by layering fiberglass (more on this shortly) over a mold or some type of structure. When the fiberglass cures it becomes a rigid shape. In modern boat construction a mold is created and the fiberglass is shaped to that mold and a top and bottom piece of the boat are combined to create the boat (that's why most boats have a trim ring around them near the top of the boat... that's where the two piece join). A lot of the reason in modern construction for this type of approach is that it requires no wood products to be used to mold the boat hence no chance of the wood rotting.
Older boats, like this Sea Ray, used wood to create the form for the fiberglass hull. Wood planks running from front to back (called stringers) provided a shape for the hull connected to the transom (roughly the back of the boat). In outboard boats the motor attaches to the transom while in larger boats the transom is generally referring to the back of the boat.
Once the fiberglass is cured it becomes the structure and the wood is merely the form around which the fiberglass is poured. So you might thing... if the wood isn't structural, why do I care if its rotting? Well, that get back to the properties of fiberglass.
Fiberglass: What we call fiberglass is typically "fiber reinforced plastic" or FRP. Depending on the application the fiberglass can be chopped, strands, or even woven mats of glass. By itself the glass is fairly flexible but when a hardener/adhesive is applied (resin) the structure cures into a hard surface that is hard as steel. Fiberglass is usually composed of many layers of fiberglass/resin to increase the stability of the structure.
However, fiberglass has some drawbacks such as not being UV resistant and being absorbent (blistering is an example of this). So why would be make a boat out of this stuff? Its light weight, its tough, and with the proper coatings you can repel water and UV protect it.
Coming full circle... you can see how rotted wood (IE wood that has water in it) would be harmful to fiberglass. Over time, the moisture causes the fiberglass to de-laminate (IE the adhesive starts to fail) and the fiberglass falls apart.
What happens with transom rot? As the moisture de-laminates the fiberglass it allows water and moisture to further penetrate the fiberglass. Not only does this extend the area of rot but also the amount of water being absorbed into the glass. While this breakdown takes some time it basically means that if you let your boat sit in the water long enough it would eventually sink because water would be flowing freely through the hull.
The main reason you want to get transom rot fixed (or any rot really) as soon as possible therefore is to prevent further damage (IE a more costly repair) and to reduce the risk of your boat sinking.
Signs of rot: There are a few ways to determine rot on a boat and they are as follows:
1. Wood that is rotted will be soft to the touch, wet, and likely crumble if you handle it.
2. Rotted fiberglass will also manifest itself as soft spots; places on the floor of the boat where the floor gives or feels soft when pressure is applied.
3. Places where the fiberglass looks to be coming apart into sheets (de-laminating)
Screwdriver test: While I don't recommend running around doing this to everyone's boat you can use a screwdriver (or the end of a ratchet) to strike the fiberglass with a light to moderate amount of force. If the fiberglass is rotted you will likely penetrate the fiberglass. If you were to touch inside the hole in the fiberglass you might find the back side of the fiberglass to be mushy.
Knock test: Another test which is slightly less reliable is a knock test. If you knock the hull of the boat you should hear a solid sound but if you hear a hollow sound it means there is a void where something has likely rotted.
Cost of repairs: The cost of fiberglass repairs can vary but expect a transom repair/replacement to cost $3,000 - $5,000.
Repair options: In my case, there were two potential fixes I explored. The "traditional" fix is to remove the old fiberglass and wood, and add new wood and fiberglass over it; just like the original boat construction. On smaller boats more so than larger ones a popular repair is to remove the old wood and fill in the void with some type of epoxy; a popular one being Sea Cast. This would have been cheaper probably but it does add weight and requires there be no moisture in the transom area for it to bond correctly (which would have been difficult to do without taking the transom apart, etc)... so I opted to have my transom redone.
Preventing transom rot: The easiest way to help keep your transom from rotting (or any parts of the boat for that matter) is to keep it dry. Make sure your bilge is dry... apply an anti-fouling paint if you store the boat in the water... and make sure the paint coatings on the bilge, hull, etc are well maintained. Those coatings help prevent UV damage and repel water.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
State of the Fleet
So after the ski boat crapped out I got caught up in other things and finally getting back to getting the boats ready for 2011!
As it turned out the ski boat (despite sitting for about a year and a half with the plugs out) still managed to get some water in it over the winter and popped the freeze plugs! But to find that out required a removal of the motor, tearing it down to check for damage, and re-assembly and install... $1200.
The Sea Ray found its way to a Marine shop and it turned out not only were the motor mounts shot but the transom as well! Currently awaiting completion of the transom and mount repairs to the tune of $3,000. Once that is done in the coming weeks the motor will have to be dropped in and the interior and exterior of the boat will need some TLC.
As it turned out the ski boat (despite sitting for about a year and a half with the plugs out) still managed to get some water in it over the winter and popped the freeze plugs! But to find that out required a removal of the motor, tearing it down to check for damage, and re-assembly and install... $1200.
The Sea Ray found its way to a Marine shop and it turned out not only were the motor mounts shot but the transom as well! Currently awaiting completion of the transom and mount repairs to the tune of $3,000. Once that is done in the coming weeks the motor will have to be dropped in and the interior and exterior of the boat will need some TLC.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Fabricate Fabricate Fabricate
One of the most tedious and time consuming parts of the rebuild project that has been ongoing despite other setbacks has been fabricating replacement pieces.
I found early on that the helm seat was rotted on one side and I couldn't tell until I removed the seat (I did so to take it into the garage to clean it) only to have the entire console fall apart!
Originally, I was going to fabricate a new console but found additional rot on the underside of the seat and some of the vinyl was dry and cracking on the underside as well. A quick fix for that was to order 2 new back-to-back seats. The cool feature there is that they fold out to a lounge chair for sunning. Problem also was that the lounge chair support frame isn't tall enough as it dangles past the raised helm platform. I'm presently working on some extensions so the supports will touch the deck.
I also don't like how the engine cover was built (it flexed in the middle a little too much) and discovered as I took it apart it was something someone built and not the original engine cover. My improvements here will be additional sound insulation as well as a stronger support. I might try to put gas shocks as well to hold the cover open.
Other little things were water seeping in under the door and caused some of the old flooring to bow. I'd fixed this once already but looking to redo that area again with a better fix including putting a drain by the door and putting some type of seal on the bottom of the door to prevent water from coming in.
Another project is the air conditioning. I'm currently working on way to disassemble and a/c parts to get them into a configuration where they will fit under one of the dinette seats.
I found early on that the helm seat was rotted on one side and I couldn't tell until I removed the seat (I did so to take it into the garage to clean it) only to have the entire console fall apart!
Originally, I was going to fabricate a new console but found additional rot on the underside of the seat and some of the vinyl was dry and cracking on the underside as well. A quick fix for that was to order 2 new back-to-back seats. The cool feature there is that they fold out to a lounge chair for sunning. Problem also was that the lounge chair support frame isn't tall enough as it dangles past the raised helm platform. I'm presently working on some extensions so the supports will touch the deck.
I also don't like how the engine cover was built (it flexed in the middle a little too much) and discovered as I took it apart it was something someone built and not the original engine cover. My improvements here will be additional sound insulation as well as a stronger support. I might try to put gas shocks as well to hold the cover open.
Other little things were water seeping in under the door and caused some of the old flooring to bow. I'd fixed this once already but looking to redo that area again with a better fix including putting a drain by the door and putting some type of seal on the bottom of the door to prevent water from coming in.
Another project is the air conditioning. I'm currently working on way to disassemble and a/c parts to get them into a configuration where they will fit under one of the dinette seats.
Monday, May 31, 2010
B.O.A.T.
B.O.A.T. - Break Out Another Thousand.
So the boat restore (which we didn't really expect to get into) wasn't going well and we decided since we still had our ski boat to take it out.
As we go to plane out... the boat overheats and we have to get towed in.
Two boats out of order...
So the boat restore (which we didn't really expect to get into) wasn't going well and we decided since we still had our ski boat to take it out.
As we go to plane out... the boat overheats and we have to get towed in.
Two boats out of order...
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Much later in time...
Basically the boat sat for 6 months after the motor mount debacle. A lot was going on at the time from pregnancy to the birth of our daughter.
Originally, the plan was to fill the motor mount holes with a large amount of epoxy resin and attach the mounts to that. However, I wasn't sure how well that would work (or if it would work at all) and decided the task should be let to professionals.
Also during this time, I took the long block to an engine builder to get it finished up and the guy instead tore the engine down and refused to complete the build on it for various reasons. The short story is he's a high-end builder and rather than assemble a rebuilt engine wanted to sell me a newer motor which I didn't want to pay for and is a little bit of overkill for what my needs are (I just need the boat to move from A to B and its never going to be a speed boat!)
Some projects I did undertake during this time as well were removing the hold carpet and headliner in the boat and I stripped and re-painted a lot of the parts with an enamel to prevent them from rusting.
Originally, the plan was to fill the motor mount holes with a large amount of epoxy resin and attach the mounts to that. However, I wasn't sure how well that would work (or if it would work at all) and decided the task should be let to professionals.
Also during this time, I took the long block to an engine builder to get it finished up and the guy instead tore the engine down and refused to complete the build on it for various reasons. The short story is he's a high-end builder and rather than assemble a rebuilt engine wanted to sell me a newer motor which I didn't want to pay for and is a little bit of overkill for what my needs are (I just need the boat to move from A to B and its never going to be a speed boat!)
Some projects I did undertake during this time as well were removing the hold carpet and headliner in the boat and I stripped and re-painted a lot of the parts with an enamel to prevent them from rusting.
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